Sweet Blog Archive: January, 2009
01/27: Smooth or Chunky?
When the “three amigas” get together it doesn’t really matter where the conversation begins–the price of beer at the Giants game, whether or not one can actually consider escargot and frog’s legs as “to go” food, the gastro-intestinal effects of eating too much takeout–we invariably end up talking dessert. Today the topic was ice cream. Who makes the best? What makes a good ice cream? Do you prefer smooth or chunky? The three of us are pastry chefs so there’s plenty to dissect and analyze.
Well first of all, who makes the best? I think we came to the concensus that no one really makes “the best” though plenty of places make some really good stuff. It just depends on what you’re in the mood for at any given moment. Are you feeling adventurous and want to try something a little more esoteric? Or are you just looking to satisfy your craving for “chewy chocolate” ice cream (yay Swenson’s)? We went to Mitchell’s today and each of us, after having studied their new menu board for about 5 minutes decided, independent of each other, to choose something “tropical” and exotic. Though the “sweet and salty peanut” ice cream grabbed my attention at first, I opted for the mango ice cream because I was feeling a bit nostalgic and wanted something that reminded me of my childhood. Nicole was intrigued by the yummy possibilities of the exotic Peruvian lucuma, which turned out to be a strangely delicious concoction that was slightly starchy (kinda like a sweet potato) with deep caramel undertones. Irene chose the young coconut over the sweet coconut–where else in SF do you get to do that?
As for the question of what makes a good ice cream, aside from the requisite creamy rich texture, I’d have to say–and my cohorts would probably agree with me–a balance of flavors, regardless of whether or not it is of the “chunky” variety. Smooth ice creams (meaning no additional textural components) are deceptively straightforward, but I think are really hard to get right precisely because there are no textural distractions. For example, when I wanted to make a Guinness ice cream, it took more than a few tries to get the flavor just right–how much straight Guinness should I put in the base, should I reduce some of it to get a richer molasses undertone, what other flavors can I add to give the ice cream complexity without confusing the tastebuds?
I love “stuff” in my ice cream as much as the next “Chubby Hubby” afficionado, but again it has to work with the ice cream. Case in point–cherry almond ice cream that was really neither. My tastebuds were expecting a burst of cherry or almond flavor. Instead I got an ok vanilla ice cream with some chunks of cherry (slightly icey) and soggy pieces of sliced almond. Had the ice cream base been infused with, say, toasted almonds or puree of roasted cherries, it might have tasted like something. Or had the cherries been more intense in flavor and the almonds toasted whole and rough chopped, the “chunks” could have taken the plain base out of the ordinary.
After much deliberation, we’ve decided the best ice cream is one that lives up to its name–whether it’s smooth or chunky.
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01/18: Proof is in the puddin’
I was watching the mildly entertaining film “New in Town” the other night–I say mildly because while I love all the actors in the film (big J.K. Simmons fan) the film itself wasn’t up to par–and had to chuckle at a scene in a Minnesota shopping mall where Lucy (Renee Zellweger) and Blanche (Siobhan Falon) are testing marketing their latest creation. It’s a tapioca pudding cup made from Blanche’s secret recipe which they’re trying to pass off a healthy “energy” snack. As Blanche, in all that gosh darn Minnesotan earnest, proclaims the creamy sweet concoction as being chockful of vitamins and minerals, the kids greedily lap it up, completely oblivious to its health benefits. Soon the pudding is flying off the shelves and the town’s only manufacturing plant is saved.
Yes, the story is silly. But I love the idea of pudding saving the day. A good pudding has certain made my day on countless occasions. I don’t use the term loosely. When I say pudding, I mean the rich and creamy variety–sort like Blanche’s tapioca. I made the mistake when I was in England a long time ago of ordering the “pudding” special at a restaurant and getting a dense cake-like substance. In England pretty much all desserts are referred to as a “pudding” regardless of texture. When I was little my mom would do her version of pudding, which was more like a very thick sweet soup, made with everything from very finely ground almonds (sieved several times for extra smoothness) or black sesame, to red bean. It was very tasty, but it lacked the mouthfeel, the heavy silken quality of chocolate pudding, something I discovered when I was about seven. Mom had decided to give Jello instant pudding a whirl. I was hooked.
It took years before I ventured into the homemade variety. But once I did, it was hard to go back to the packaged stuff. At first it was only the smooth stuff, with the occasional foray into tapioca. Then, I got into rice pudding–though my version is more like a risotto (made with Carnaroli or Arborio) baked in a custard, then cooled and folded with whipped cream. At last I moved onto bread pudding, something I really didn’t get into until I discovered that bread pudding didn’t have to resemble a dense baked french toast, which had been the case with most of the bread puddings I’d thus eaten. My feeling is, if you’re gonna call something a pudding, there had damn well better be plenty of it. One of the biggest pet peeve of mine, relating to desserts, is when there is more “bread” than pudding. Such was the case recently with a flavorful yet awfully dense “cornbread pudding” I had at a popular Italian restaurant. I almost felt like screaming, like the lady in the infamous Wendy’s “where’s the beef?” commercial, “where’s my pudding!?”
A well-made pudding is a thing to behold. It can save the day…or in my case save the meal.
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A few years ago, it was decided that the time had come for my feisty ninety-two year old grandma, who had been living on her own for more than fifteen years, to move back in with my mom. There had been one too many close calls involving incinerated congee, burnt stew and a near-stroke episode involving the ninety pound grandma dragging a twenty pound sandbag across her doorway to prevent the rain from flooding in her apartment. My mom and aunts took on the task of clearing out her pantry when moving day finally came. What they discovered was a staggering number of recycled Mary Ellen jam jars–at least forty alone filled with rice. The total jar count hovered around seventy.
Mom just shook her head and mumbled something about my grandmother being a pack rat, which is kinda like the pot called the kettle black considering the decades old collection of toiletries in her bathroom (yeah mom they haven’t made that mouthwash since 1983). My aunt, however, attributed grandma’s jam jar fixation to her need to not be wasteful, to save every last bit in case of an emergency. Maybe she’d transfer the last half cup of rice from her rice bin into a jar, buy a new bag, and forget to finish the rice in the jar first? Or, as I suspect, she had what I term that “Chinese hoarding instinct.” It comes partly from living through hard times (in her case I suppose WWII) and also a need to be “prepared.” You never know when you’ll need that last bit of rice or that recycled jam jar for that matter.
As frivolous as I can be–and these days I can’t afford it–I have quite a bit of that “hoarding instinct” in me. I don’t, like my grandmother, have a plethora of recycled jam jars filled with various dry goods. I do, however, seem to collect alot of snack foods–storing them in zip loc bags or securing them close with tiny bull clips. What can I say, I like variety. I’ve never been the type of person who could just eat an entire bag of say potato chips in one or two sittings. Like my grandmother, who incidentally also used those jam jars to display a seemingly endless selection of snacks, I’m a nibbler. I have been since kindergarten, when she’d plunk down that daily little plate of assorted treats for me to savor while I watched an afternoon of cartoons.
Now, I suppose I could just buy a snack size of something, maybe in a variety pack, but then I like to choose my own variety. I never know when I’ll have a hankering for those cheese crunchies from Trader Joe’s, followed by an English chocolate-dipped digestive biscuit. And those things don’t come in small packages.
When I was studying in England my American cohorts and I would head into the village Sainsbury market to stock up on packaged “bickies” or cookies for those long study sessions. Invariably, after about a day or two, my friends would be pounding on my door to tap into my stash of bickies because they knew I was “hoarding” them. I never could get them to understand that it really wasn’t so much about saving the bickies for a rainy day (and we had a lot of those) as it was about me wanting to have a variety on hand so I could nibble at will. Sure it was a kind of portion control, but I think it’s more about my taste buds getting bored with eating too much on one thing. And since I hated wasting food, I just saved it.
I can fully appreciate the appeal of “minis,” especially desserts. Why eat just one big one when you can have a bunch of little ones? I find myself thinking in those terms more and more lately, which is a little ironic since I’ve spent the better part of my years as a pastry chef in restaurants making huge batches of stuff. When someone asked me for a recipe, I usually had to force myself to scale it down.
I wouldn’t turn down a big sloppy hot fudge sundae or a fat slice of hot apple pie a la mode, but sometimes eating a few mini versions is the best way to have your cake and eat it too. In my case it saves me from both flabby taste buds…and flabby thighs. Hmm…maybe that’s how grandma kept her girlish figure?
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“On the fly” is a phrase exclaimed loudly and frequently–often attached with a colorful expletive–in a restaurant kitchen. It usually means that someone at some point “f—d up” an order and it needs to be fixed NOW!! Those three little words would shoot through your ears and into your veins like adrenaline, sending your heart and brain racing to get the job done. When you’re just starting out in the kitchen that adrenaline rush is intoxicating. If you’re any good at what you do, you feed off that energy, develop a thick skin and learn very quickly how to think fast on your feet–in other words creatively “pull things out of your ass.”
The great thing about this invaluable “skill” is that it makes you seem like a rockstar. However, on the flip side is that other people–those usually less organized and focused–tend to view it as an all-access pass through your life. And people wonder how I learned to cuss like a sailor?
I’ve always fantasized about being independent. After fourteen years of working for and under other people-restaurants, hotels, corporations, etc.–I figured I’d try my hand at shaping my own destiny. Maybe there would be less of the “on the fly” stuff if I ran my own business? Uh huh.
Sure, on the surface, I am in control. I’m responsible for every aspect of my business, from production to PR. However, try as I might, I can’t get away from doing things on the fly–the unexpected happens–ALL THE TIME. I make countless lists to keep myself organized. And then, those list get thrown out the window–like the other night, when I found myself white-knuckling it up a treacherous winding one lane road up a pitch black mountain in thick fog at 10 mph, forty minutes late for a baking class in the Oakland hills because of the massive traffic jam in SF on the way to the Bay Bridge. I had a epiphany of sorts, because you tend to have those ah-ha moments when you think you are going to die as your car is a few inches from rolling down a cliff.
All those times I got thrown curve balls at work and managed to rise to the occasion–as frustrating and oftentimes infuriating as it was– did prepare me for all this madness of working for myself. Yep, you bet I sweated it out the whole traffic/getting lost in the Oakland hills ordeal. But once I got there and got my bearings again, I was in my element. No matter how f—d up things are, you can always find a way get the job done if embrace the challenge of doing it on the fly. That, I’ve discovered, is the very nature of running your own business.
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01/13: Immortality or Chocolate?
Okay, I admit it. I’ve read the “Twilight” books (all 4 of them) at least three times. I’m a huge fan of the Charlaine Harris sexy southern vampire series and its television incarnation, the HBO series “True Blood.” I actively seek out new paranormal/ vampire fiction on Amazon. Given the success of “Twilight” the reason is obvious. Vampires (or immortals) are DAMN sexy! Not only do they have the whole eternal youth/ supernatural strength/amazing sex drive thing going for them, but most of them are cultured and well-read (they better be after living history for a few hundred years!).
A thought occured to me though, while I was sitting on the couch nibbling on a piece of Toblerone watching Bella declare her undying love to Edward (and she really meant “undying”) for the umpteenth time, that no matter how obsessed I was with my perfect vampire mate I don’t think I could ever give up the very human experience of enjoying food to stay with him forever.
I mean really, wouldn’t it eventually get kind of monotoneous to drink only blood? Even if you were able to treat your various “donors” as a metaphysical tasting menu, sampling different “flavors” in their blood through the food they consumed before you decided to suck the life out of them, it wouldn’t replace the pure sensation of, say, chocolate melting on your tongue. Biting into a neck ain’t the same thing as biting into a crispy piece of perfectly fried chicken, or a juicy sauce-laden rib. Great food, like great sex, awakens all your senses and can just as easily make your eyes roll back into your head.
I don’t think it’s a coincidence that Bella wasn’t really into food. Yeah, she ate it but she never seemed to relish in the experience of eating. So given the choice to stay human or turn into a vampire, it was really a no-brainer–Go Team Edward! Me? Well, what’s the point of all that “eternity” if you can’t sink your teeth into a freshly-glazed warm chocolate donut once in a while?
Here’s my list of the top 7 things I would miss if the vampire of my dreams came along and I (yeesh) decided to go the O-negative route:
1) Chocolate – pretty much in any form.
2) Fried Chicken – humans can’t be crispy on the outside and juicy on the inside.
3) Donuts – buttermilk bars, fritters, custard-filled, etc.
4) Ice Cream – need I say more.
5) Ribs – again, human neck not the same.
6) Dim Sum – hey I like a little of everything.
7) Sushi – pulling a live one out of the ocean ain’t gonna cut it.
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In hard economic times, we gravitate towards things that warm the soul and make us feel secure. Comfort food is one of those things–chicken-fried steak with gravy, buttermilk biscuits, strawberry rhubarb pie, po-boy sandwiches, ribs. We know what we’re eating and it makes us feel gooood. There is still a place for fine-dining indulgences, like an exceptional caviar or a beautifully prepared foie gras. It’s just getting harder and harder to justify spending what would amount to a day’s or even a week’s pay on a meal made up of dishes that are more vanity project or science experiment than food to be savored and enjoyed. If you have to ask what the heck is that when the server sets the dish in front of you, then you are having a culinary arts nightmare. As my friend Irene would say, “that’s no bueno.” Pushing the envelope can be a good thing…except when the contents have exploded onto your plate like a Jackson Pollack painting.
I’ve been known to do a “take” on a familiar dessert, like a cheesecake sundae. I’ve used quotation marks to indicate that it is being presented perhaps in a nontraditional way. It’s only fair to the guest ordering the dessert to know in advance your being a little cheeky. However, I think it is downright cruel and inhumane to lead the guest on–not to mention charge them up the whazoo–for something that in no way shape or form resembles or tastes anything like what they are expecting. Just because you think it is a cool idea doesn’t mean it will taste good or that you should expect the guest to get your point. When creating a new dessert, I always ask myself one very important question: What do I want to eat? Okay, granted some us have esoteric tastes, but I think what we crave is always a good starting point.
On the flip side of the dessert spectrum, is stark minimalism. Don’t get me wrong, a lovely slice of perfectly-baked pie with a scoop of ice cream is a wonderful dessert– in a low-key, casual place like a cafe or diner–not so much in a more sophisticated dining room where the average price of an entree is over $25. An $8 or $9 dessert better have something more than two things on a plate (and I’m not counting that dusting of powdered sugar as a component!). I love ice cream, but I wouldn’t pay seven bucks for two scoops in a bowl, no matter how wonderful the flavor, because in the end we enjoy the meal with our eyes as much as with our palates. Otherwise we’re just not getting our money’s worth.
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01/09: All in the genes or in the head?
I’m hardly what anyone would call a “health nut.” I mean really, if carb-pushing was a capital crime I’d be on death row. So there is great irony in the fact that one of my favorite shows is “You Are What You Eat” on BBC America. I guess you can call it a “self-improvement” show in the similar vein as “The Biggest Loser” only the focus is usually on one or two individuals–battling the bulge. Instead of the ultra buff uber fitness trainer Jillian Michaels cracking the whip, it’s the tough-talking food-nazi nutritionistista Gillian McKeith.
I’m utterly fascinated by the willingness of the participants to quit their “bad” eating habits cold turkey–which Gillian cruelly lays out in a stomach-churning buffet table of a week’s worth of gluttony–and submit themselves to eight weeks of a stringently monitored “detox” diet. Everyone is told at the beginning that if they don’t eat “healthy” and exercise immediately–they will DIE, sooner not later. And so a grossly overweight chocolate and cheese-obsessed housewife from Hampshire, for example, having been poked, prodded and subjected to a colonic, is scared straight. After eight weeks of torturous self-denial and sucking down gallons of nettle tea, she emerges victorious, sporting a new do, stylish clothes and make-up, and at least twenty pounds lighter. She, like the other participants, has succeeded in overcoming her evil, unhealthy habits. She apparently no longer craves the “bad” stuff and is perfectly satisfied with life without chocolate and cheese. Ah, a happy ending for all. Uh huh.
Don’t get me wrong, I think it is fantastic that these people had the determination to get healthy and the fortitude to stick to a regime. But will they really be able to live like that forever? And more importantly, is it all that bad to let yourself enjoy a little vino and chocolate occasionally? Will a couple pieces of bacon be the death of you? Do we have to live life in such extremes–french fries in gravy, butter sandwiches, sausage rolls and chocolate bars on one end and nettle tea, aduki bean stew, beet root juice, and dandelion greens on the other? God I hope not.
My cousin, who ironically, by his own admission, is on the obese side of the scale, is an oncologist. He has spent years studying the causes of and treatments for cancer. He’s come to the conclusion that, despite our best efforts to live healthy–eat right and exercise–some of us are just genetically predisposed to have high cholesterol, high blood pressure, and even cancer. This explains why a person who lives a seemingly healthy lifestyle and appears fit can still be popping Lipitor, like my aunt, while my sedentary cousin cheerfully carves up rib eye on a weekly basis.
Well, that sucks! So it’s basically a crapshoot whether you are one of the lucky ones who’s genetically blessed with a body that efficiently processes cholesterol–like my cousin apparently–and can eat whatever with little ill effect. Okay, you may be fat but it ain’t gonna kill you.
What’s truly mind-boggling though, is that according to Ed your state of mind is far more important to longevity than anything else. If you are essentially optimistic and happy-go-lucky, chances are you will not only enjoy life more, but will live longer. Sure there are things you can do to improve your chances of not getting cancer or a heart attack–like regular exercise and not smoking or eating/drinking excessively–but to deny yourself the pleasures of food is not one of them. If eating the occasional maple bacon donut or seared foie gras makes you happy, go for it. Just chase it down with a little nettle tea for good measure.
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01/04: Remembrance of things past
“Whatever happened to the Blue Fox?” asked my Uncle Alan, as we drove through the financial district on our way home from a wonderfully gut-busting family dinner at the R&G Lounge. “Long gone,” I replied. “And Ernie’s? Remember those classic red velvet curtains?” he reminisced. “Yeah, made famous in “Vertigo”, I pointed out. “It’s gone too.”
Uncle Alan, not having lived in San Francisco for decades, doesn’t really keep up with the ins and outs of this city’s turbulent restaurant scene, so his memories of those fine dining institutions are warmly faded around the edges like those infamous red curtains at Ernies. “What’s happened to this town?,” he lamented. “Nobody seems to want to do the classics anymore. Is the House of Prime Rib still doing good business at least?” I reassured him that, yes, the “Hopper” was indeed hopping seven days a week–serving up juicy slabs of prime rib accompanied by a stellar roundup of traditional sides, including the strangely addictive house salad (yes, I’ve gone back just to buy the damn salad dressing). The Hopper isn’t exactly “fine dining” as defined by city’s new paradigm, but it most definitely a place to go for special occasions, for when you want to treat yourself and loved ones to a really good, satisfying meal. It’s success is a testament to it’s ability to cut across economic and cultural lines, even in the rough and tumble San Francisco restaurant scene. There is something truly comforting about a menu that stays true to its concept, year in and year out, not to mention a level of service that doesn’t waver.
Reminiscing with my uncle had me thinking about another place, long since gone, that had a profound effect on my way of thinking about the restaurant dining experience–Le Cyrano. Le Cyrano was my family’s “go to” fancy non-Asian restaurant whenever we wanted to celebrate something or treat an out-of-town visitor. Everyone loved the place because, despite the language and cultural barriers, you could safely order off the classic French menu with a certain degree of confidence. The menu there, like at the Hopper, never really changed. Dad could order his favorite sole meunier or frog’s legs, my grandmother her trusty rack of lamb, and my mom her chicken cordon bleu. I, of course, knew there was chocolate mousse or peach melba in my near future. Okay, once in a while, I’d be tempted by the lure of the floating island special. And, as always, the service was top-notch. We went back year after year, until sadly there was no more Le Cyrano to go back to. Mom tried to get us to go to another “French” restaurant out in the avenues–oddly enough owned and operated by the Chinese chef, with Chinese servers–but something was lost in translation. The food was fine, but ambiance just wasn’t there.
Having worked in the restaurant business for over a decade, I know how much effort it takes, both front and back of the house, to give each and every guest a great dining experience. Yes, as sometimes is the case, shit happens. But the overall goal is to maintain a high level of consistency. Looking back on it now, I can fully appreciate those early “fine dining” experiences because it set the standard in my mind of how things should be. Regardless of how innovative a menu or restaurant concept may be, the core value should always be about consistency and service, because that is what makes a place truly a “classic.”
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01/04: Not all in my head
What I miss most sometimes working for and by myself is that I don’t have a restaurant kitchen full of like-minded cooks to bounce ideas off of. Even though I do know what I’m doing most of the time (I’m pretty sure of that), it’s still nice to get some positive feedback or input from another source. Sure, I can text, call or email a friend for ideas or suggestions, but the response isn’t always immediate and you kind of want to strike while the creative iron is hot.
I think I’ve always gotten my best ideas out of impromptu brainstorming sessions with friends/colleagues. My friend Nicole loves to tease me about having my “Dr Evil” moments during our brainstorming–that’s when a “brilliant” idea pops into my head and I instinctively put an unturned pinky to my lips. And no, I don’t follow that up with “Mmmwahhh!” I just bob up and down on my toes like a giddy school girl.
It’s the thrill of coming up with new things that really gets me going. Sometimes I can find the inspiration on my own or figure out a way to do something I’ve never done before–in a MacGyver sort of way–like replicating a skateboard out of fondant and cardboard. But for me, the most satisfying, creative things are born out of collaboration–a kind of jam session–when a little help from my friends can take me out of my own head and outside the box.
01/03: In between a cake and a cobbler
Being my own boss these days has afforded me a considerable degree of creative freedom. I make desserts that I want to make (most of the time). I experiment with whatever tickles my fancy–a chocolate and bacon crunch bar for example. But there are times when I kinda miss the pressure-cooker environment of a restaurant kitchen and the way it kept me on my toes. I think I was the most prolific when I was working under an executive chef (the big bald Swedish dude to be exact) who was constantly challenging me to do more, to come with new desserts.
Really, how many different ways can I do a fruit crisp or cobbler? Upside down cake? Pie? Tart? I needed to come up with something completely new–at least to me. I found it, I believe, in an old Fanny Farmer’s cookbook. The buckle–halfway between a cake and a cobbler. It was pretty easy to put together–really just fruit and batter. My first attempt, following the recipe, was underwhelming. Cake was a little dense and dry, surprising considering the amount of fruit baked in. The texture didn’t do anything for me. Nevertheless, there was potential there, and after a few adjustments and additions (e.g. a topping), I came up with a recipe for fruit buckle that was, by all accounts pretty damn good–especially served warm with a scoop of vanilla gelato. The great thing about it is that you can pretty much use whatever ripe summer you have…then switch to sauteed apples or pears in the fall.
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